We planting Trees

Why prune a tree?

“where scientific knowledge make a difference in the service”

Your Lucky Tree Services
There are only a few valid reasons to prune a tree in the urban landscape • Promote tree’s health • Reduce hazards to people • Train a young tree • Increase or decrease flowers/fruit	Tree Removals Tree Trimming Stump Removal ( 100 % ) Tree Staking and Cabling Storm Damage	Sick Tree Treatment Deep Root Fertilzation Palm Tree Service Preventative Maintenance

Identify the purpose for pruning your deciduous shade tree. Resist pruning because the tree is growing rapidly, or because the neighbors are working on their trees. Understand that pruning always causes a wound and always results in some response in the tree: 

• Loss of foliage and ability to create food from sun-light
• Potential entry points for decay organisms
• An increase in sprouting
• Reduced vigor
• Susceptibility to insect problems

 

Decide whether the desired benefit will override the negative effect on the tree. Equipment needed for pruning Limbs of various sizes will be removed during pruning. Matching the limb size to the hand tool will make the job go more easily. Buy the best tool you can afford. In general, you get what you pay for.
For limbs over one inch (2.5 cm) in diameter, use a pruning saw. There are several available styles. High quality forged stainless steel is strongest. Those with blades on both sides of the teeth will cut efficiently on both forward and backward strokes. Models with blades that narrow at the end will allow easy access to tight spots. Pruning loppers are convenient for limbs that are

Which Kind of Tree Should I Plant?

Think about the following questions:

•             Why is the tree being planted? ...

Do you want the tree to provide shade, canopy over a patio or deck, seasonal color with flowers or autumn foliage, sculptural interest in the landscape, food for birds and other wildlife, or to act as a windbreak or privacy screen?

Maybe more than one reason?
•             What is the size and location of the planting site?

Does the space lend itself to a large, medium, or small tree? Will the mature size of the tree be in scale with your house?

Are there overhead or below ground wires or utilities-where the tree will grow?
•             What type of growing conditions exist?

Is the soil deep, fertile, and well drained. or is it shallow, compacted, and infertile? Will the tree have to be tolerant of urban conditions?

Will the tree be growing in full sun or have some shade from other trees or buildings?
There are hundreds of great trees that grow well in Arizona. Homeowners can choose the "right tree for the right place" by getting to know more about our trees. Check the recommended tree list on the association office or talk to your professional Tree service Yourluckytree with Bernie owner operator and main representative.

 

about the size of a finger. Blades that cut like scissors (“bypass” type) will make cleaner cuts. Models are available that have gears for efficient movement, hollow handles for reduced weight, and high quality steel blades.
Hand pruning shears are best for branches less than 1/2 inch (1.25 cm). Left handed-versions are available. Those with stainless steel bypass blades, and handles that fit the hand will cut efficiently with less effort.

 

 

Use certified landscaper is good for the trees

 

Your Lucky Tree is a tree care company located in Scottsdale, Arizona serving the entire Phoenix Metro area (Scottsdale, Tempe, Phoenix, Glendale, Sun City, Mesa, Fountain Hills and the Awahtukee Foothills areas) Peoria, Toleson . We are dedicated to the health and care of your trees and landscaping.
We combine current Scientific Knowledge and Artistic Expression together to create an atmosphere on your property that will not be forgotten. We provide tree care services to residential, commercial, with exceptionally high quality at a reasonable price.

 

 

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Glossary of Tree Terms and images

acid
pH - acidity or alkalinity ranging from 3 (strongly acid) to 11 (strongly alkaline) with 7 being neutral.
alkaline
pH - acidity or alkalinity ranging from 3 (strongly acid) to 11 (strongly alkaline) with 7 being neutral.
alleopathy
The suppression of growth of one plant species by another due to the release of toxic substances.
alternate
Leaves that are staggered, not placed directly across from each other on the twig.
anthracnose
A group of fungi that cause dieback and sometimes death to various species, such as dogwoods, sycamores, oaks, and maples.
blade
The flat part of a leaf or leaflet, characteristic of broadleaf trees.
bract
A modified leaf that bears a flower.
broadleaf
A tree with leaves that are flat and thin, and generally shed annually.
bud scar
the marks remaining after bud scales drop in the spring.
clingstone
any of various stone fruits (as some peaches or plums) with flesh that adheres strongly to the pit.
compound leaf
a leaf with more than one blade. All blades are attached to a single leafstem. Where the leafstem attaches to the twig, there is a bud.
conifer
A cone-bearing tree.
cross-pollination
fertilization between genetically compatible trees for better fruit, often resulting in superior offspring.
crown
The head of foliage of a tree or shrub -- this is the form or shape of the tree.

deciduous
Shedding all leaves annually.
entire
A leaf margin with smooth, untoothed edges.
evergreen
Trees with needles or leaves that remain alive and on the tree through the winter and into the next growing season.
exfoliate
peeling in shreds or thin layers, as bark from a tree.
freestone
A fruit stone to which the flesh does not cling.
habit
The general mode of plant growth. Used to describe the overall shape of a tree.
hardiness zone
A plant can be expected to grow in the zone's temperature extremes, as determined by the lowest annual temperature. Other conditions such as moisture, soil, and wind might affect the availability of individual plants.
knees
The tree trunk in wet conditions exhibits a broad buttress with protrusions from the roots.
leaf scar
The mark left on the twig where the leaf was previously attached.
lobes
Projections that shape a leaf.
margin
The edge of a leaf.
midrib
The primary rib or central vein of a leaf.
native
Inherent and original to a geographic area.
opposite
Two or three leaves that are directly across from each other on the same twig.
palmate
Blades or lobes or veins of the leaf arranged like fingers on the palm of a hand.
persistent
Deciduous leaf blades that remain on the tree for more than a year.
petiole
The leafstalk that connects the blade(s) to the twig.
phytoremediation
The use of trees to take up chemicals, binding some of the material in an inert form with the tree, and converting some of it to other substances, possibly even breaking it down into the normal end product of a tree's chemical processes.
pinnate
Blades of lobes or veins of the leaf arranged like vanes of a feather.
pistil
The seed-bearing organ of the flower. The pistil consists of an ovary, stigma, and style when present.
pollination
To transfer pollen from the anther of a stamen to the stigma of a pistil, resulting in fertilization. This can occur either on a single plant (self-pollination) or between different plants. Insect pollination and wind pollination are two examples of natural pollination.

reforestation
The planting of forested land that has been lost due to fire, logging, drought, pests, or disease to restore beauty to the landscape, provide food and habitat for wildlife, and for recreational activities.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

riparian zone
an area of ecological transition between the aquatic zone and the upland zone.
rootstock
The root upon which the scion is grafted.
samara
Winged fruit.
scion
The part of the tree that is grafted or budded to rootstock.
self-fertile / self-pollinating
Fertile by means of its own pollen; this makes it theoretically possible for both pollen and ovules to unite and produce fruit without a second tree being present.
simple leaf
A single leaf blade with a bud at the base of the leafstem.
sinus
Indentation between lobes on a leaf.
specimen tree
A tree placed so people can gain the greatest enjoyment for the color, texture, scent, or other pleasures it provides.
spurs
Stubby, often sharp twigs.
teeth
Notches on the outer edge of a leaf.
triploid
Having three sets of chromosomes rather than the usual two. As a result, the pollen is sterile.

xeriscape
Saving water while maintaining trees and other plants in the landscape.

 

 

Planting a Tree In Phoenix, Arizona

The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is during the dormant season’Äîin the fall after leaf drop or early spring before budbreak. Weather conditions are cool and allow plants to establish roots in the new location before spring rains and summer heat stimulate new top growth. However, trees properly cared for in the nursery or garden center, and given the appropriate care during transport to prevent damage, can be planted throughout the growing season. In tropical and subtropical climates where trees grow year round, any time is a good time to plant a tree, provided that sufficient water is available. In either situation, proper handling during planting is essential to ensure a healthy future for new trees and shrubs. Before you begin planting your tree, be sure you have had all underground utilities located prior to digging.

If the tree you are planting is balled or bare root, it is important to understand that its root system has been reduced by 90 to 95 percent of its original size during transplanting. As a result of the trauma caused by the digging process, trees commonly exhibit what is known as transplant shock. Containerized trees may also experience transplant shock, particularly if they have circling roots that must be cut. Transplant shock is indicated by slow growth and reduced vigor following transplanting. Proper site preparation before and during planting coupled with good follow-up care reduces the amount of time the plant experiences transplant shock and allows the tree to quickly establish in its new location. Carefully follow nine simple steps, and you can significantly reduce the stress placed on the plant at the time of planting.

1. Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Make the hole wide, as much as three times the diameter of the root ball but only as deep as the root ball. It is important to make the hole wide because the roots on the newly establishing tree must push through surrounding soil in order to establish. On most planting sites in new developments, the existing soils have been compacted and are unsuitable for healthy root growth. Breaking up the soil in a large area around the tree provides the newly emerging roots room to expand into loose soil to hasten establishment.
2. Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted (see diagram). If the trunk flare is not partially visible, you may have to remove some soil from the top of the root ball. Find it so you can determine how deep the hole needs to be for proper planting.
3. Remove tree container for containerized trees. Carefully cutting down the sides of the container may make this easier. Inspect the root ball for circling roots and cut or remove them. Expose the trunk flare, if necessary.
4. Place the tree at the proper height. Before placing the tree in the hole, check to see that the hole has been dug to the proper depth’Äîand no more. The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. If the tree is planted too deeply, new roots will have difficulty developing because of a lack of oxygen. It is better to plant the tree a little high, 2 to 3 inches above the base of the trunk flare, than to plant it at or below the original growing level. This planting level will allow for some settling (see diagram). To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole, always lift the tree by the root ball and never by the trunk.
5. Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm that the tree is straight. Once you begin backfilling, it is difficult to reposition the tree.
6. Fill the hole gently but firmly. Fill the hole about one-third full and gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of the root ball. Then, if the root ball is wrapped, cut and remove any fabric, plastic, string, and wire from around the trunk and root ball to facilitate growth (see diagram). Be careful not to damage the trunk or roots in the process.
   

    

   

     Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause roots to dry out. To avoid this problem, add the soil a few inches at a time and settle with water. Continue this process until the hole is filled and the tree is firmly planted. It is not recommended to apply fertilizer at the time of planting.

7. Stake the tree, if necessary. If the tree is grown and dug properly at the nursery, staking for support will not be necessary in most home landscape situations. Studies have shown that trees establish more quickly and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting. However, protective staking may be required on sites where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy conditions are concerns. If staking is necessary for support, there are three methods to choose among: staking, guying, and ball stabilizing. One of the most common methods is staking. With this method, two stakes used in conjunction with a wide, flexible tie material on the lower half of the tree will hold the tree upright, provide flexibility, and minimize injury to the trunk (see diagram). Remove support staking and ties after the first year of growth.
8. Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch is simply organic matter applied to the area at the base of the tree. It acts as a blanket to hold moisture, it moderates soil temperature extremes, and it reduces competition from grass and weeds. Some good choices are leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or composted wood chips. A 2- to 4-inch layer is ideal. More than 4 inches may cause a problem with oxygen and moisture levels. When placing mulch, be sure that the actual trunk of the tree is not covered. Doing so may cause decay of the living bark at the base of the tree. A mulch-free area, 1 to 2 inches wide at the base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and prevent decay.
9. Provide follow-up care. Keep the soil moist but not soaked; overwatering causes leaves to turn yellow or fall off. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot weather. When the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. Continue until mid-fall, tapering off for lower temperatures that require less-frequent watering.
   
   Other follow-up care may include minor pruning of branches damaged during the planting process. Prune sparingly immediately after planting and wait to begin necessary corrective pruning until after a full season of growth in the new location.
   
   After you’Äôve completed these nine simple steps, further routine care and favorable weather conditions will ensure that your new tree or shrub will grow and thrive. A valuable asset to any landscape, trees provide a long-lasting source of beauty and enjoyment for people of all ages. When questions arise about the care of your tree, be sure to consult your local ISA Certified Arborist or a tree care or garden center professional for assistance.

The PHC Alternative

Maintaining mature landscapes is a complicated undertaking. You may wish to consider a professional Plant Health Care (PHC) maintenance program, which is now available from many landscape care companies. A PHC program is designed to maintain plant vigor and should initially include inspections to detect and treat any existing problems that could be damaging or fatal. Thereafter, regular inspections and preventive maintenance will ensure plant health and beauty.

 

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